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My Watches

Discussion area for watches, clocks and all other timekeepers.
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cortman
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

Between the Vostok and the Steinhart I felt pretty well covered on dive style watches, so I turned my attention to field watches. I listened to a lot of The Grey Nato at the time, enjoying learning through them stories of explorers and adventurers and their timekeeping tools. Many of them used some style of field watch, often the classic Rolex Explorer. I decided to start researching a classic field watch for myself, I enjoyed its association with overland activities as my family and I enjoy hiking and exploring the outdoors.
My research took me in a slightly different direction than classic mechanical field watches though. My reasoning was that these great explorers from the past had used the best timekeeping tool they had available at the time; their focus was utility, not romance. I decided to try to find a modern, quartz-era successor to the classic field watch- what an Edmund Hillary might have chosen had he had it available.
This was a fun exercise. I did my research and eventually settled on something from the Victorinox INOX line- namely, the Titanium INOX with the gray dial and orange seconds hand.

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(This picture makes it look absolutely huge. It fit better than this!)

This watch was simultaneously so cool and exciting and a big disappointment.
First, just look at that dial, case and handset!

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It's absolutely gorgeous. The matte gray titanium case blending perfectly with the matte gray dial, the bright orange second hand giving that pop of color, the applied indices and that razor sharp chapter ring... I was blown away. The whole watch was extremely light but felt solid as a tank, and it was an absolute pleasure to run the fingers over that smooth blasted case. The screw-down crown is massive but fits perfectly between the equally massive guards, which make almost a cocoon around it. It was a big, stout watch and there was no hiding it, but it felt great on the wrist.
But there were a couple dealbreakers for me, and led me to resell it in less than a month. First, the lume was pathetic. Really, really, awful. Within less than an hour after fully charging it was completely 100% unrecognizable that there even was lume. An hour is being generous. The indices and hour hands were very narrow, so the quantity wasn't there, but evidently neither was the quality of lume. This was such a disappointment that I even considered for a bit getting it professionally re-lumed. I don't feel like every watch needs to be a torch but if this was going to be an exploring/adventuring/camping/field watch, I felt like it had better be readable in the dark.
The other thing was the wild imprecision of the seconds hand. It was all over the place, everywhere except striking the second markers. I try to be a bit generous with my expectations in this regard, but it was bad enough that most of the time it was hard to tell what second it was even striking.
So please, Victorinox, please- get some lume on this thing and get the movement alignment a bit better, and you'll have almost the perfect field watch.

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cortman
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

In early March there was a great purge of the collection. The Inox clearly wasn't going to stay, as much as I loved many of its features. The Citizen chronograph's large size was becoming more and more apparent to me. And the Steinhart... I was starting to feel a bit uncomfortable with how on-the-nose of an homage it was. There's no way I will ever own a Rolex Sub or GMT Master so it's not a matter of "getting the real thing" someday. I guess I began appreciating a bit more original and independent watch design. So I decided it was time for me and the Ocean GMT to part ways. Its sale would also allow me to put extra funds in the account to explore more watches.
So the purge happened quickly but not painlessly. The collection was momentarily trimmed down to three: The Vostok, the Frederique Constant, and the Seiko.
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

My next watch purchase moved upmarket a bit, flush with funds from multiple sales. A deal posted here inspired me, but I wound up not buying the deal and getting a slightly used example instead. I bought the Seiko SPB079, or SBDC063, colloquially known as the "Baby MM" or "MM200". This was a really, really great watch.

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This was my first foray into higher-end Seiko. I was quite favorably impressed. The Zaratsou polishing was immaculate and coupled with the heavily beveled sides made the watch melt into the wrist. I'm a big fan of 4:00 crowns and this one was substantial and had great threading and winding feel. The 6R15 movement kept time within a couple seconds a day. The lume was incredible as usual. The biggest attraction however, was that bezel insert. It's blued or some sort of finished steel, and the blue changes shades and hues bewitchingly in various lights and environments. It was a constant pleasure to look at, to see what color would be brought out by wherever I was at the time.

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This watch wore extremely well on a variety of straps.

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As well as the stock bracelet, which was very well made (terrific clasp, definitely a step above the 4r36 Prospex watches)

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This was a terrific watch to own and wear, and I am grateful for the time I had with it.
However a few things caused me to begin to look to greener pastures. First was the bezel action. It was very stiff, but had a very soft, almost mushy feel. There would be a fairly firm click, then an almost indistinguishable click, then a firm one, alternating. I wasn't a fan of this from the start. It was almost impossible to operate with wet hands, and as I have very soft fingernails, there was no using a nail on it. I intended to take it along on actual dives, as I was getting PADI certified at the time, and this was discouraging.
Also the oyster bracelet, while of excellent quality, had flattened top links and a relatively sharp transition from top to end of each link. I like rounded oyster bracelets, and while this may not seem like much, I'm a huge fan of bracelets and very particular about them.
I kept this watch for several months- what I bought when I sold it will come later.
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

It was around this point that I sold the Citizen chronograph mentioned in previous posts. I was a bit on a chronograph search, as I realized the 44mm size wasn't going to work, and I really disliked the utterly useless 24hr dial that unfortunately appears on so many otherwise handsome quartz chronos. I guess I'm an anomaly but I would much rather have just a 2 register chrono than a 3 register with a fake 24hr subdial.
So as I was browsing watchrecon, as you do, when I saw a chrono from a new company for me- Laco. It was the Detroit model, a quartz chronograph of excellent dimensions, and a true 3 register chrono to boot!
It was an excellent price, in fact exactly what I'd sold the Citizen for, and so I lost no time purchasing it. Based on the MSRP I was confident I could resell and make a little profit if I decided not to keep it.

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This one was oddly a bit of a mixed bag. The dimensions were perfect: 40mm case, 11mm thick, 20mm lugs. A nice case shape with curving lugs and a nice crown/pushers. A decidedly modern dial and handset, with quite decent lume and three awesome chronograph registers. The 3 date display is divisive but I rather liked it.
It was the first watch I ever got that came on a stock NATO, and I didn't feel like it was a good fit for this watch. The NATO itself wasn't very good quality, and I think this thing deserved leather or a nice bracelet, neither of which I had at the time (suitable for this watch anyway).
The watch wore really nicely, and was lightweight and pleasant on the wrist.
I think what broke this one for me was the stock NATO strap and the kind of frivolous and unnecessary dial printing- the fake rivets look, and fake steel-looking seams. They just seemed a bit too faux and took the watch in my mind from a nice timepiece to kind of a novelty, mall-stand type item. The handset, chapter ring, and number font were all really cool to me- but the whole presentation was kind of ruined by the rest of the dial printing.
All in all, so close, Laco- so close.

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Last edited by cortman on Thu Aug 22, 2019 12:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

For some time in the back of my mind I'd been keeping an eye out for a somewhat rare dive watch, the Citizen NY0088-11E "Fugu" diver with the Pepsi bezel. From the first time I saw pictures I was hooked. The case and bezel shape are slightly unusual among other dive watches, and I couldn't get enough of it. The brilliant pepsi bezel and deep black glossy dial, color matched day/date window, applied indices and nicely shaped, chunky handset- I'm beginning to feel I'm going into a TGV-style rhapsody. And to top it all off, a crown not at 3, not even at 4, but at 8:00- how could I resist!

This watch and the whole Fugu series was a limited edition release by Citizen, 1000 pieces of each color scheme, and released only in the Asian markets. Thus it was unusual in being fairly uncommon but not very expensive (typically below $300 for like new). I was biding my time until I came across a decent example at the same time I had some spare cash.

Not long after I decided to list the Laco for sale, I saw one come up on Reddit. Nothing was said in the listing about "no trades", so not expecting much I made an offer. To my excitement the seller was quite willing to trade with me throwing in a bit of cash. We completed the transaction and I was in possession of a minor grail with very little actual expenditure!

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This watch came with a classic Citizen no-deco rubber strap and a special NATO strap, a different pattern/color for each Fugu edition. Mine came with a blue and red stripe- Pepsi colors!
When I opened the box and put the watch on, it 100% lived up to all my expectations. The size was perfect- a very small-wearing 42mm diameter, 20mm lugs, moderate height. The dial and bezel looked way better in person even than the pictures. The bezel action is a little loose but still an excellent feeling 60 click that is spot on the minute markers.
Also this thing wears a NATO better than any watch I've ever worn.

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I don't see myself ever getting rid of this watch. It just fits me and my taste so well. Sure, I could wish it had hacking, maybe a higher grade Miyota movement or a slightly tighter bezel, but the combo as it exists is already close enough to perfect for me.

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I managed to snag a 20mm Staib mesh bracelet (these things are incredible) which it lived on for a few good-looking months.

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And most recently I've bought a stock Citizen oyster bracelet meant for a different watch but with fitted endlinks. It looks a treat and is super comfortable. I bought a WatchGecko clasp to replace the stamped stock one, and as soon as it arrives I'll have pics and this watch will be even more deeply entrenched in the collection.
Last edited by cortman on Thu Aug 22, 2019 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

Not long after I got interested in watches I discovered Bauhaus timekeepers. I was (and still am, honestly) completely blown away by Nomos- the cleanness of design, the beautiful fonts and delicate color use. Amazing watches, and I hope maybe to own one one day.
While reading about Bauhaus watch design I of course came across probably the most historically important and still significant player in the field, Junghans, and their collaboration with legendary designer Max Bill. I loved the Max Bill line from the start, and knew that someday I'd own one (preferably a three hand automatic). I wasn't as interested in quartz, as I felt a fine German watch should have a good mechanical movement, and the hand-wind seemed much too small for me at 34mm. Especially as my vintage Seiko at 37mm seemed much too small for me at the time.
Shortly after the purge I came across what looked like an absolutely killer deal for a lightly used automatic. After a quick bit of soul-searching and financial examination, I went ahead with the purchase.
Now because I'm an absolute doofus and evidently have difficulty reading English, I only realized after payment had cleared and the watch had shipped that I had bought the hand-wind model. I guess I should have maybe guessed that the price was too low for the auto, although it was still actually an excellent deal for the hand-wind as well (well below $500, with full kit). I was a bit shocked at my own incompetence and somewhat disappointed, but I reasoned I'd be able to resell easily enough.
When the watch arrived I was even more shocked- at how well it wore on my 7" wrist.

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This was a big lesson to me- learning how more dial equals wears much larger. The 34mm felt completely at home on my wrist, and I even began to feel that the 38mm automatic would probably wear a bit too large. Just as a comparison I found that this 34mm watch's dial is actually larger than the dial on my 44mm Seiko SBDC063.
I love this watch. As a big fan of Bauhaus design and sensibilities in other areas of life the legibility and beauty of the design really appeal to me.

It wears well on a variety of straps too, and I finally acquired a mesh bracelet for it as well. I have to interject here and say that the stock leather strap is amazing- by a long shot the best stock leather strap I've ever worn.

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I believe this one will be in the collection permanently. It doesn't get worn as often as some due to its slightly more delicate nature, but it's a terrific dress/semi-dress watch.
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Re: My Watches

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Next in the timeline is the selling of my Seiko SBDC063. I sold this in June after owning it a few months.
It was a fantastic watch. I honestly liked it a lot. However after a while the couple things that bothered me about it started to bug me more- mostly the 120 click bezel action. I don't know if it was just my model or if it is endemic to Seiko, but the bezel was quite stiff and yet very mushy feeling, very soft click feedback. Of course it had a bit of play in it as well, but nothing too terrible- it was mostly just that feel. The bezel being smaller in diameter than the case, coupled with the very stiff action, made it difficult to impossible for me to operate underwater.
As a recreational diver a functioning and easy to use bezel is important to me. I don't own a dive computer as for my small-time lake and quarry diving it'd be a very expensive overkill, so I literally rely on my watch and dive table to calculate nitrogen absorption, just like in the good ol' days.
The bracelet, while very nicely put together, did not have link geometry that pleased me. It was much to flat and angular for my taste.
These things, coupled with the fact that it is quite large for me (even though it wears well for its size) led me to put it up for sale, where I easily sold it and broke just even with the purchase price.
Gone, but not forgotten- thank you for the experience!

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cortman
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Re: My Watches

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The watch fund was pretty flush after the Seiko sale, and I knew exactly what was in my sights for next purchase. I was pleasantly surprised then to find exactly that piece for sale for an excellent price less no more than a couple weeks later!

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I still have a warm place in my heart for Steinhart, and I have long love their original designed Ocean Titanium 500. The only thing that gave me pause was the titanium case and its propensity for scratches. I decided at the price I couldn't go too wrong if I decided to resell it, so I took the plunge and had a used one on the way.

When I got the watch I was really amazed at how the titanium felt. I've never owned a titanium watch, and the brushing can look kind of coarse- I wasn't expecting such a satiny, smooth, warm feeling. I was very pleasantly surprised by that. It was noticeably lighter being made of all titanium, not cheap-feeling or really surprisingly light, but noticeable. I loved the feel of the bracelet as I've loved all Steinhart bracelets, the link geometry just feels so good, and the warm, silky titanium was a fantastic feel on the wrist.
The Steinhart case I knew well from my other pieces, with its smooth, traditional shape and frustratingly flat lugs. Interestingly, I noticed that the lugs never bothered me on the Ocean GMT but they seemed to protrude a bit with the Ocean 500, not sure if it's the materials that makes a difference or not.

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The bezel and dial are honestly perfect for me. There is nothing I don't love about either- the excellent lume, both on the dial and bezel, the smooth, tough ceramic bezel insert, the matte gray dial with clear, sharp markers, the simple, legible handset, and the date window placed with perfect symmetry at 6:00. The bezel feel was just like my Ocean GMT, which is to say really amazing and probably the best bezel action of any diver I've used.

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To make it even better, the Ocean 500 has a display case back that reveals a really beautifully decorated ETA movement.

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It worked perfectly on multiple actual dives as well!

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Including this rather hair-raising experience.

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The only thing I don't like about this watch is the lug design. It's very flat, and really makes it not very wearable with NATO straps, on my 7" flat wrist. Leather is ok for when I do it, and the bracelet works well.
Also on the used example I bought, the endlinks don't line up perfectly with the case, which is a little frustrating.
Unfortunately in preparing to leave on a trip, I brushed the watch against the glass window on my front door, and put a nice series of gouges in the sapphire crystal! I was amazed to say the least that sapphire scratched that easily. That coupled with the bracelet endlink issue have me thinking about selling this particular model at a discount, and throwing in a few extra dollars and buying a brand new example with factory warranty. We'll see.
I'm pretty confident, however, that this model will always be a part of the rotation.

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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

The watch fund was STILL flush even after the Steinhart purchase, so I decided to try yet another dive watch. I like the style and having recently become SCUBA certified, I feel justified in exploring the genre.
An excellent deal came up for a used Seiko SRP777, the classic black Turtle. I went ahead and purchased it, and managed to get both divers for the cost of the SBDC.

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I'd never seen or handled a turtle in the metal before. I was surprised at its size- at 45 mm, it definitely is a big watch. With the almost nonexistent lugs, however, it wore very nicely, and although still large, it wasn't inappropriately so- at least it seemed to me.

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I quite liked the smooth curves of the cushion case, and how the lugs kind of melt into it. The case finishing was excellent. I am a big fan of 4 o'clock crowns, and this one was no exception.
The dial layout and handset are very handsome and quintessentially Seiko; a pure essence of Seiko dive watch design. The lume is of course fantastic as it is with every Seiko. The 4R36 kept impeccable time, well within +10 spd.

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Eventually as the above picture shows, I had an opportunity to buy a lightly used Strapcode Super Oyster bracelet for it. The turtle on that bracelet really sung as a combination. They compliment each other so well, and that bracelet feels so good, that it immediately elevated the watch in the collection and wear routine.

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I seriously considered keeping this one permanently. It's a great piece, full of beautifully classic design, and a fantastic tool watch on top of it. The only thing that gave me pause was, like many other divers, the bezel design. It's a bit difficult to grip, especially when wet, and was stiff and kind of mushy, much like the SBDC063. It was better than the SBDC063, but not drastically.
Eventually I made the decision to sell off some watches in order to buy one I was truly excited about, and this one was one of them. I made some decent money on the resale, so all in all it was a terrific experience, and I definitely think I will own a Turtle again someday.

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Re: My Watches

Post by Split-Time »

I am really enjoying this series, cortman!
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Re: My Watches

Post by Dub Rubb »

Well done on this whole thread. I find it fascinating to see others watch journeys, and your's is amazing so far. You do a great job of conveying how the watch speaks to you. Not just specs and BS, the real deal how this watch makes me feel part. That is the best, but obviously different for everyone, and the part I am enjoying most.

Also I am loving that your dive buddy is rocking a scuba dude!

Sent from my LG-M322 using Tapatalk

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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

Dub Rubb wrote: Wed Aug 21, 2019 11:47 pm Well done on this whole thread. I find it fascinating to see others watch journeys, and your's is amazing so far. You do a great job of conveying how the watch speaks to you. Not just specs and BS, the real deal how this watch makes me feel part. That is the best, but obviously different for everyone, and the part I am enjoying most.

Also I am loving that your dive buddy is rocking a scuba dude!

Sent from my LG-M322 using Tapatalk
Thanks brother! I really appreciate the compliments. I love reading/hearing about others' watch journeys as well- was really what motivated me to start this thread.
It also really helps me remember what I liked and disliked about watches, and helps me narrow my taste and focus to what I actually like, instead of just whatever looks initially cool or seems like a good deal.

The scuba dude performed flawlessly. I actually bought it for him last year. :)

Split-Time wrote: Wed Aug 21, 2019 8:59 pm I am really enjoying this series, cortman!
Thanks for the encouragement, glad you are enjoying it! :D
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cortman
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Re: My Watches

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My next purchase was a bit impulsive but still fell into my long term collecting strategy. The rugged field watch slot that I hoped to fill with the Victorinox remained empty, and thus in July I purchased a piece to fill it. I found a good deal on a used Boldr Venture.

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One nice extra with this watch is that it came with a really truly handsome and well-made canvas, suede and leather watch roll. I've never owned one before and had considered purchasing one, so it was really cool to get this one for free with the watch! It truly is of excellent quality as well.
The watch itself is truly amazing. The 38mm blasted titanium case is a very unique, modern shape- I don't know of any other watches that use it, so it appears to have been an actual design by Boldr instead of another same-same watch case that every other microbrand uses. Crown at 4:00 (love it!) and 100m of water resistance make really perfect for anything, even the most rugged and demanding scenarios.
I love the dial layout, how clean and classic it is, but also with distinctly modern design touches- the font, for example, and the bright orange second hand.

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The only thing I could wish for would be a date display, as it's a complication I use quite a lot. But I do appreciate the dedication to symmetry on the dial and am fine without it.
The lume is excellent- not quite up to Seiko standards, but very adequate and long lasting.
The crystal is sapphire with AR coating on the underside- incredible at this price point!
Under the hood is a Swiss Ronda quartz movement- simple and accurate.
A big plus on this watch is that the seconds hand strikes the minute marks with satisfying consistency.
The watch itself came on an olive drab NATO strap with signed titanium hardware. This was another really superb touch- and this watch is obviously built for NATO straps.

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Now for the really good news... All this comes in for $150 new from the dealer, and you can find them around and under $100 all day long used. Truly an incredible watch for the money!

There was one fly in the ointment, however- apparently due to a production or QC issue a lot of these watches shipped with the dial slightly misaligned- the whole dial rotated slightly.
I loved this watch so much otherwise that I decided to try my hand at fixing the alignment. It was a really fun project and as far as I am concerned a smashing success. I wrote a how-to on WUS, linked here. https://forums.watchuseek.com/f71/boldr ... 17319.html
Having fixed the alignment issue, I'm happily wearing and enjoying this watch. I honestly think, even barring price, this is one of the very best quartz field watches available today, with a fantastic original design to boot. I highly recommend this one to anyone interested in that niche, even with the possibility of dial misalignment.
The titanium case will no doubt pick up scratches easily, being a softer metal and also a scratch-prone blasted finish, but (rarely for me) I think this one will look better and better with age.
This one is definitely a keeper in the collection, and I am superbly satisfied with it. I plan to take this one on my next camping/hiking adventure and enjoy it in its natural element!

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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

I was still on a buying kick after selling the SBDC, and on Amazon Prime day I found an opportunity to pull the trigger on a watch whose movement, not necessarily design, had enticed me for some time. That is the Bulova Precisionist with their proprietary Ultra High Frequency quartz movement.

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(photo courtesy watchshop.com)

I am still very intrigued with the UHF movement. It seems like a fantastic opportunity to get Grand Seiko feel in a very affordable package.
Upon receiving the watch the most noticeable thing is of course that buttery smooth second hand sweep. There is literally no stutter to it at all- it was an absolute joy to watch. Finishing on the watch seemed very good as well, especially considering its price point.

All that said, however, it did not stay- in fact it left quicker than any watch purchase yet. It taught me an important lesson: No movement is able to salvage an aesthetically bad watch. The Bulova was 42mm, rather on the large side for a dressy watch, and had really incongruously sized 22mm lugs. This was just far too wide for a watch like this, and made it look much larger on the wrist. Also the dial just wasn't there for me. It was a little too layered for my taste, and in that sense busy without having anything about which to be busy.
I returned the Bulova in only a few days, after trying it on and realizing the case was just poorly designed and the dial not to my interest. I am absolutely going to be keeping my eye out for another UHF watch, however, and if I can find one that is as pleasing aesthetically as that movement is, it will likely wind up a permanent fixture in the collection.
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Re: My Watches

Post by cortman »

Shortly after this there was another minor collection purge. I sold the Vostok- I'd had it for a good while, felt I had experienced it well and fully, and it was time to move it along. I'd recently gotten the WatchGecko Shaldon bracelet for it (worst named bracelet ever, excellent quality though) and that made it an easier sell as the two were seemingly made for each other. I thanked the watch for the good experiences and moved it along.
The Turtle sold quickly also. I seriously debated this, and more than once took pictures and got ready to post an ad, then decided against it. It's a really great watch, despite the not so great bezel feel, and I am confident that someday I'll own one again. This one had to be moved along to make funds and room for a new watch that really caught my eye, which I will write about next.
State of the collection after the minor exodus:

1. Vintage Seiko 3 hand
2. Frederique Constant moon phase
3. Junghans Max Bill Hand Wind
4. Boldr Venture
5. Steinhart Ocean One Titanium
6. Citizen Fugu
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