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Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

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Conchita Turtle
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Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

Post by Conchita Turtle »

One of the first watches I bought when I started with the hobby was an Eterna Soleure that, although it was cheaper than my Speedy or Lindbergh, became my basic weekend watch because of its cleanliness, readability and beauty.

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The watch became my favorite, and I ended up giving it to my father. Its place was taken by a Zeno Watch Basel "Elegance", rebranded by the Barcelona distribuitor Kronos, a gift from a cousin. That Kronos is still, despite its humility in front of other more expensive watches in my collection, a regular Sunday watch.

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Both watches pay tribute to a design of Bauhaus origin that revolutionized watchmaking.

The 1930s. With economic depression all over the world, Patek, a firm specialized in complication watches, lives its lowest hours. Jean and Charles Henri Stern brothers, who made the dials, acquired the firm, and decided to create a watch that would be a revulsive and attract new customers. The type chosen is in the then fashion trend after the end of the Great War, wristwatch, although pockets were still the norm. And, unlike its big brothers, it would not have any complications, but even though it would be the entry model, it would have to have the same top quality of realization as these.

The person in charge of creating the watch is an Englishman, David Penney, who makes a design in line with the principles of the then contemporary Bauhaus movement, whose main motto was "less is more", and whose maxim was that form followed function, seeking maximum practicality through cleanliness and rationality.

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One of the most characteristic design keys was that the lugs were an integrated part of its round box, emanating fluidly from it to hold the strap, when until then they were welded wires. Another feature was a bezel that framed the dial. The size of 31mm today would make many of us smile... but it contrasted with other "round" wristwatches, made by welding wire handles to large pocket watches.

Likewise, the wristwatches in fashion until then were of the Art Deco type, rectangular, with small hands, flowery numerals, sometimes two-tone dials... in the stele of the Cartier Tank of 1917. Beautiful, but not so readable. Penney, again resorting to the Bauhaus philosophy, sought to make the time as legible as possible, with a clean sphere with visible markers, and Dauphine hands.

The resulting design would become the basis for most dress watches from then on, the Calatrava 96. Released in 1932, initially with a LeCoultre movement, but two years later with manufacture caliber, it was such a success that it was in the catalog for 40 years.

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And they have become iconic and collectible watches. For example, a rare Patek Philippe, Ref. 2526P, Calatrava with first series enamel dial, retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1954, sold for $642,500 two years ago.

https://www.antiquesandthearts.com/pate ... rd-642500/
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Almost 90 years later, Patek is still independent and one of the very few firms that still belongs to a family, although I'm sure a Richemont, a Swatch, or why not, a Rolex would write a blank check to the Sterns, who still run it. There have been several Patek that carry the name Calatrava with variations in caliber (either hand wind or automatic, little seconds or central second and date), bezel (flat or "clous de Paris"), hands ("Dauphine" or stick) or dial (sectorial or flat with Bréguet or Roman numerals)...

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However, the Calatrava 5196 is the current heir of that 96, with basically the same design, changing only the sub-sphere of the seconds and growing to 38mm.

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It's still as fresh and current a design as it was then. The quintessence of the dress or elegant watch. And the most copied. From the Bambino to the JLC Master Ultra Thin, from a Grand Seiko to a Datejust to an AT or a Conquest Heritage, all drink to a greater or lesser extent from its design.
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Re: Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

Post by TheJohnP »

Great to have you back [mention]Conchita Turtle[/mention]!
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Re: Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

Post by cortman »

Terrific writeup, about one of my favorite styles of watches! Thanks for putting this together!
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Re: Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

Post by cheddar »

Great post, thanks for putting it together and sharing! Always wondered about the history of that design.
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Re: Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

Post by pdsf »

Yes, [mention]Conchita Turtle[/mention], great write-up! Thank you. It's one of my favourite styles!!
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Re: Patek Calatrava. Possibly the most perfect (and copied) design.

Post by yinzburgher »

A few weeks ago at Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe released a new Calatrava and it looks like they pretty much stuck to the script with this one. The new reference 6119R-001 with Clous de Paris bezel looks nearly identical to the original sketch. Except now it comes in rose gold and has been upsized to 39mm. $29,570 USD

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